SPEAKING OF TEQUILA…..
Encouraged by the rising price of Tequila, and because I haven't been there for a few years, my traveling partner and I decided to visit, (you guessed right) the pueblo of Tequila.
This time instead of the jeep we decided to go first class and in air conditioning. I loaded my little Nissan with an ice chest of goodies, a sample of the Tequila I wanted to buy and the usual things for a night on the road. I picked up Vicky at the hospital as she came off duty and we made a pit stop in Tepic ( a little out of the way) and then hit the Autopista in the direction of Guadalajara. The road is first class. Lots of emergency call boxes and casas de cobre (toll booths). There are two ways to go by car from our starting point, which is Rincon de Guayabitos. Free road or libre to just the other side of Compostela (toll booth), free road into Tequila or cut over to the toll road.
We opted for the toll road, but after considering the cost of about $200 pesos each way, decided we would take the free road back. Anyway, sometime in the afternoon, and after a ride through beautiful green valleys, lava flows and mountains, we arrived in Tequila.
I will not go into many details about Tequila, because so much has been written. Only that the Spanish arrived about 1530 and either convinced or forced the natives to accept their way of life. The word Tequila, according to many was the Spanish translation for Teo Chin Chan (the name of the present pueblo of Tequila) and a dialect of the Nahuatl language, a rough translation of which is The place of a strong God. Most tourist guide books lead one to believe that beyond a visit to the distilleries, the plaza and church, Tequila has little to offer. I read a recent account of Tequila in which the author said "you wouldn't want to spend the night there". Bad advice.
Of course Vicky and I like to go to places that don't necessarily have a Hilton hotel, and for me after calling a foxhole home during a couple of wars, anything with a roof is o.k. But in Tequila, there are three places to stay that I know of, and I have tried them all. We planned on staying one night but enjoyed ourselves so much that we made it two.
Arriving in town we first found a place to stay. Hotel Abasolo on the street by that name. Crosses the avenida (which runs directly to the main plaza and church). Turn right a couple of blocks to No. 80. Tel. 374 201-95. Not the ritz, but rooms are clean. A fan, cable TV, hot water and secure parking. Price $150 pesos! Because we arrived in late afternoon and the time difference of one hour, by the time we cleaned up and had a siesta, most restaurants were closed (and there are many real nice places to eat). So we wandered down to the main plaza and strolled about. A really neat little town with some winding streets and an adventure to see the old places.
I have been to so many great little places that I have trouble remembering all of them, but most have one thing in common. The plaza is not only a place for events, but where young folks meet and court. The norm is that they stroll about the plaza. Sometimes the boys or men in one direction and the girls or women in the other. After becoming a couple they walk together. Here we encountered something different. There are two plazas. One on the Avenida, and in which is located the church. The other is just across the street from the chuch. In the plaza where the church is located, the females would sit in groups, and across the street and in the arcade were the males. In the plaza across from the church, and on many benches or other places to sit were the couples. No singles! Anyway, I thought that was interesting. Somehow they must meet.
One thing I forgot to mention. We passed many shops selling both tequila in store bought type bottles and offering it in unmarked plastic containers. I was previously warned that you had to be careful because the product they were selling was not necessarily what they said it was. You have to be careful of where and what you buy. Fortunately we had a couple of recommendations. Also, it is unclear to me what the Mexican law is on purchasing of Tequila without government seals, etc.
After walking around awhile, we dropped in to a little place that sold tacos. It had one of those bar b que like things with lots of layers of meat that was giving off juices and this wonderful smell. We both gorged and I paid the bill of only 20 pesos. We called it a nite and returned to the hotel.
Our primary mission the next morning was to buy enough quality tequila to provide us and our guests with marguerites for the next year. However, the smells of a passing vendor of tamales overcame us and we bought a couple. Our stomachs, after being primed with a delcious tamal de elote (corn tamale), demanded more. Vicky suggested our favorite place to eat. The native market. You know, it is interesting to note (why do I always say this in my stories?) that I rarely see gringos eating in a native market. Yet here is where the best and REAL Mexican food is served and at prices to fit every budget. We walked beyond the first market stalls and into the very center. Here stood one building by itself. After entering there was a group of large cloth covered tables. Completely surrounding us was stall after stall, all beautifully tiled, and each containing different dishes. There was even a stall with Japanese and Chinese food. All was very clean. We wandered around and decided what we wanted, sat at a table and all was delivered and from different stalls. We ate our fill and paid the bill of only 50 pesos.
At this point we decided we were having such a good time that we would stay another night. Having noticed a hotel on the avenida, we decided to check it out. A really cute little place on the main street and only a couple of blocks from the plaza. Newly redecorated in very Mexican colors. Two stories, very neat. Cable TV, hot water, ceiling fan and clean. Only minus was street parking but they have a night watchman to keep an eye out. Single bed 180 pesos. Double 250. Worth it. Hotel Posada del Agave. Sixto Gorjon (the main street) #83, Tel. 374 74 20774
Now, down to business (almost). We wandered through the next plaza and stopped at a kiosk that was advertising tours to the distilleries. We booked a tour (30 pesos each) for a little later, and continued onward. Walking down a couple of blocks and after a couple of false information leads we arrived at the right numbered house. We knocked three times, said "Joe sent us", showed our secret pass and were allowed to enter. (do you really believe this). Well the entering part was o.k. There was a sign on the street that said tequila was for sale. We did introduce ourselves as being friends of a friend, who has been a patron for years We tested various tequilas but my favorite was still the sample that I carried. The price was up somewhat, which was expected and we bought enough to last us (hopefully) for the next year. I also bought a 20 liter oak barrel to give some of it a little more "reposado" for our B&B guests. I returned with the car which, after being loaded up, groaned with the added weight.
After leaving our car and booty in front of the hotel we returned to the plaza in time to board the van, which was loaded with a lively, but older crowd, from Mexico City. Off we went, our goal being the Distilleria Cofradia. Out of town, down a number of unmarked and very marginal roads, we finally drive through a guarded portal and park in the Cofradia lot. The driver, also our guide started us with viewing the blue agave plant, then the ovens, the formenting vats, the huge distillation containers (it was distilled up to 3 times, depending on the grade), and finally the store where we were allowed to sample, to our hearts content, all of their products. A lot of the crowd overindulged, but keeping to my normal high standards I limited myself to a dozen or so. Fortunately, Vicky was there to keep me in line.
We had a nice night walking around, more shopping and seeing the sights and a light dinner. We left early the next day for our other paradise, Rincon de Guayabitos after another great time on the BACKROADS OF NAYARIT.
Note: The other place to stay is on the free road on the edge of town. I stayed there several years ago. An o.k. motel at that time.
Bob Howell
[Bob later published a 'photo essay' of this trip, 26 photos with captions telling this story in a different way. A Trip to Tequila [photo essay]
